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New location for blog!

4 Jan

Please head from now on to:

New site is up and it’s gorgeous!



24 Jan

I recently added a new item to the Lord’s Jester Product page; there are links for samples, liquid perfumes, solid perfumes, custom perfume, and now a “Donate to the National MS Society” link, which takes you to “Adam Gottschalk’s MS Fund,” hosted by the National MS Society. I reckon I’m a perfumer disabled by MS, so I might as well invite my fans to participate. A recent wheelchair-bound MS rough patch is partly the reason for this option; I mean technically donations to the MS Society are not one of my own Products; I figure people who care about me, and care about my perfume in particular, might be convinced to donate to my fund; they make it easy: you go to my MS Fund on the National MS Society web site; you can donate with Visa, Mastercard, Discover, even American Express (unfortunately, you can’t donate using Paypal). If they really wanted to make it easy to donate, they’d offer a Paypal option; I may email them and ask if Paypal could be another donation option.

Benzoin liquid resin. Difficult stuff to work with no matter what form you use.

Some years ago I realized CO2-extracts are perfect for solid perfumes because they’re essentially fatty; makes sense they would work well in an oil/wax solution. In general, I use distilled and “enflowered” and expressed oils for alcohol perfumes; in some cases CO2-extracts work in alcohol, but you never know, so I reserve them for solid-perfume use. I’ve tried regular “absolutes” in solids (oil and wax together) too many times, and had the whole process fail, that I’ve learned my lesson. Absolutes are for alcohol; CO2-extracts, well, the perfect place for them is in solids (otherwise known as concretes de parfum). Orris CO2 is the perfect floral fixative for concretes de parfum. Vanilla CO2 works better in solids than vanilla absolute works in alcohol; the absolute is sticky and never really dissolves, even in 190-proof alcohol (no matter what heat you apply–once it cools, vanilla drops out of a perfume). Benzoin, while being the perfect balsamic fixative, can be difficult in both alcohol and solids both, whether you’re using an absolute or a “liquid resin,” indispensable though benzoin is; it has the potential to be a difficult material to work with. I don’t ever use benzoin in solids; I use Orris CO2 for an excellent floral fixative (balsamic? No, but a great fixative nevertheless).

Orris root. A great floral fixative for both alcohol and solid perfumes (the CO2 for solids).

As some of you know, I recently released two new perfumes, Phoebe eau de parfum and Chronos eau de cologne; I’ve listed them on my site as “limited editions,” because they’re not perfect so I still want to work on the formulas. I’ve been working on Phoebe for years; it was one of my very first successful perfumes, based on osmanthus and an “amber accord.” But it’s still not perfect. I’ll keep working on the formula. Chronos is my immortelle perfume (and an homage to Sables from Annick Goutal); it too is almost finished, but it needs a little more work. (My very favorite synthetic perfume, L’Instant de Guerlain pour Homme, sexy and oh-so powdery, well, the closest I’ve gotten is my own powdery Selene eau de parfum, not that I would ever aim to duplicate L’Instant; I’m not sure it would even be possible with natural materials.) I’ve also got a honeysuckle formula I’m working on (Aphrodite); and Zeus, which I intend to be strong and simple amber perfume (Ares eau de cologne is quite nice, one of my favorites in my entire line, but that’s a spicy amber); and as Anthea is a successful solid ode to jasmine, I’m working on a rose-esque perfume called Persephone. I might try Persephone as a solid, but then I’d feel obliged to do an alcohol version of Anthea; I might try them each as both solid and alcohol.