1 Jan

I mistakenly wrote in the last installment that frangipani was an important ingredient in Mrs. Younger’s custom perfume. It’s not; I plan to include frangipani in Artemis concrete de parfum (CDP from now on). I’m hoping to make a powdery lavender CDP. I’m hoping diluted tonka-bean absolute will make for something powdery (Jane Cate of A Wing and a Prayer Perfumes told me that to make her perfume Epione she used tonka tincture which she’d made herself; that perfume is quite powdery, and I’m hoping the diluted absolute will make something powdery (I can’t think of a better term, but people must understand what we mean by powdery? Smelling like talcum powder, but only at the edges of the aroma). Epione is an eau de parfum, so I wonder if tonka will have a similar powdery-giving effect in a CDP. Frangipani, to me, smells fuzzy in its floral nature; I’m hoping this will enhance the powdery effect of the tonka.
Much to my surprise, John Reasinger said Daphne extrait is “better than Caron or anything coming from Paris” !!! It’s funny, because I didn’t think much of it when I first smelled it; I liked Anthea extrait better, but John has a better nose than I do–I’ll often send him perfumes I’m not sure about, and I trust he’ll be honest and frank. I say I send him stuff I’m not sure of, but then that’s not true. If I thought I made something terrible, I wouldn’t dream of sending it to John; I’d prefer he only smell the better things I have to offer. Still, it’s good to know I have a friend who will smell samples, good and bad, and give me sincere feedback about them. John recently has been getting much attention from blogs; my, does he deserve it. I encouraged him to blog for Ca Fleure Bon, which is the fifth most popular perfume blog.
Artemis, my lavender CDP, still needs work. It’s almost there, but I know what I did wrong: I added too much lime essence and not enough lavender (CO2 in the base and EO on top). You’d think I could just make something simple; I’m afraid because I’ve had so much trouble with lavender alcohol perfumes. I took out the frangipani from the formula; I have a simple 8-note CDP to make. It promises to be excellent, but I won’t know for sure until the CDP has matured. Natural perfume is a waiting game. I let my alcohol perfumes rest a month, the CDPs more like two weeks. When I first got into natural perfume, I realized ambergris tincture wouldn’t work in CDPs; so I bought raw ambergris, chopped it up, and macerated it for six months in fractionated coconut oil (FCO). I still have two bottles of it left.


3 Responses to “010112”

  1. Debbie Gorham January 2, 2012 at 6:45 am #

    I like the idea of a powdery lavender CDP. Have I ever sent you samples of the gorgeous lavender essential oils we distill? I’m happy to do so, if you’d like them.

    Debbie Gorham

    • Adam Gottschalk January 2, 2012 at 6:13 pm #

      No, but I’d love to receive any lavender essential oils you have.

      • Debbie Gorham January 2, 2012 at 10:58 pm #

        okay. pls. tell me the address to which you’d like me to mail them, and I’ll send you a selection in tomorrow’s mail.


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