16 Feb

Persephone is still not right. There’s a sharp aroma that I can’t seem to get rid of. More work is needed. I think I should move on to one of the many other perfume ideas I have, like Hermes (containing tea-tree and eucalyptus, what I call a truly outlaw perfume), and Triton (a blue perfume containing green cognac and blue cypress); unfortunately, so-called “clear labdanum” is not in fact clear, at least until it’s been diluted, which I haven’t yet tried). Zeus has potential, but I already have an amber cologne, Ares. Maybe I’ll take Ares eau de cologne and turn it into an eau de parfum. I like it full strength. That’s the way I wore it at first. Again, it’s one of my first successes in perfume. A natural perfumer must, I believe, have some sound amber perfume. As far as the tea-tree/eucalyptus idea I have, it’ll have to wait. Instead I’ll work on a Guild “Brave New Perfumes” project; the deal is they’re trying to highlight underused aromatics. A perfumer must choose from a master BNP list of extracts; a person is allowed a single “wild card,” an extract not on the list.

I don’t think too much of fire-tree in the end; what I get is a largely animalic odor that reminds me of a more complex Africa stone. Very stinky. Linden blossom, on the other hand, I absolutely adore. It smells a little bit like “honey sur flowers” (literally, honey on flowers, like petitgrain sur fleur, which is a co-distillation of petitgrain and, as far as I know, neroli, or geranium sur fleur, which is geranium co-distilled with rose), complex but very satisfying. It is, in fact, a top note, as Mandy Aftel advises. White-ginger-lily is pretty amazing stuff. It does smell like lilies, but nowhere near as sweet and overpowering. Great aromatic to add to my library. Another aromatic I’ve never smelled is hyacinth. I have 18ml on order from Australia, which is the only place I could find it. From what I’ve read it’s “floral, complex, and strong.” Could be another great addition. One other aromatic I want to smell is (sweet) cassie absolute (not to be confused with cassia, which, as far as I know, is cinnamon-like).

I’m getting ready to move to Florida, to be near my family. Mary and I are going to drive together; we’re planning to take the Blue Ridge Parkway, which is a gorgeous road at the top of a mountain (I think it’s about 400 miles long) inside a park. (My guidemaps are coming.) I’m a little worried about packing all my perfume stuff. There’s a lot of stuff, including 100s of aromatics, alcohol, finished perfumes, finished perfume bottles (lots), diluted notes for custom perfume, oils/wax, boxes of different kinds, etc. It’s a lot of stuff to worry about.


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