6 Feb

The new perfume I made for Mary, now called Héra, is a little nondescript. I’ve changed the formula for the next iteration; I want to smell less sandalwood and hay, more honeysuckle and rose in the heart, and more ginger on the top. The first iteration doesn’t quite know what it wants to be; there are various conflicting parts. I love contrast, and apparent opposites can often lead to synergistic results; this iteration is too confused. I need to focus on what I’m trying to accomplish. Mary liked labdanum, osmanthus, vetiver, frangipani, and immortelle; none of those was in the first iteration. I should play around with the formula some more. One thing Mary didn’t smell was honeysuckle; I’m pretty sure she’d like it though. How could a person not like the smell of honeysuckle? I will say the absolute smells very different from the fresh flowers.

Honeysuckle. How could a person not love honeysuckle?

I’m waiting to acquire some new aromatics. Linden blossom for one; I’ve smelled it before but never had enough to make a perfume out of. Another one is rosa bourbonia, which is a slightly different variety of rose, that smells, believe it or not, very different from rosa damascena, the typical rose. Another one is gardenia, which, again, I’ve smelled but never had enough to work with. Another is, believe it or not, lilac CO2; I’m joining other Professional Perfumers in a group buy from Ecomaat by way of Larry Marsala, but other places sell lilac. Another is white ginger lily; I have no idea whether or not it smells like regular lilies, which smell is intoxicating. Another is red-raspberry; I assume it smells like, well, red raspberries, but whether or not it will be useful is a question.

Rosa bourbonia. Different from rosa damascena.

And yet another one I want try is fire tree; it’s expensive but it sounds really nice, starting with the smell of lilac, then moving into an animalic, smoky, woody base. Just my sort of thing. Mandy Aftel sells it; it might be hard to find other suppliers–a web search turned up no company or individual. I’m not sure I want to try it; what if I love it? I’d be really disappointed if I couldn’t get any more. I may have to ask my friends at White Lotus Aromatics if they can get some. I have seven ounces of orris-root/violet-leaf co-distillation on its way to me from White Lotus. The only other place I know to get orris-violet is Floracopeia, and they’re out of stock right now; they only sell it in one dram vials anyway (one dram is .125 ounce), which is not very helpful for me. It’s much more expensive from Floracopeia than the bulk purchase from White Lotus.

Orris-violet. A delightful smell.


8 Responses to “020611”

  1. Sheree Tompkins February 6, 2011 at 5:13 pm #

    Hi Adam,

    Just wondering if there is a way to join the pre-buy you spoke of?

    All good things,

    • Adam Gottschalk February 6, 2011 at 5:20 pm #

      Sorry. You have to arrange it with Christopher. I’m not even sure he can get anymore. I can sell you a little if you want.

    • Adam Gottschalk February 6, 2011 at 5:30 pm #

      Did you mean the lilac CO2? That’s only for Professional Perfumer members of the Natural Perfumers Guild.

  2. Anya February 6, 2011 at 5:28 pm #

    Adam, I may be getting some of the orris/violet co-distillation. It’s done to order. I’m thinking in April or so.

  3. Brian Shea March 20, 2011 at 7:19 pm #

    Hi Adam,
    I don’t know if you’ve gotten the white ginger lily yet, but it smells similar to gardenia, but spicier, with a sort of vetiver-like undertone. I love it! I planted some in front of my friends apartment and it bloomed late summer through winter-it was heavenly drifting in the bedroom window, and when you walked by it on the front stoop. Its funny, because both Anya and Elise cant seem to grow it or get it to bloom! I have a sample of the vetiver/white ginger attar from White Lotus,and suprisingly, its the white ginger you smell most in the drydown.

    • Adam Gottschalk March 20, 2011 at 7:33 pm #

      Yes, I love white ginger lily. Now that I’m going to be in Florida for good, I may actually be able to think about growing things again. I’m a long-time gardener and mini-farmer. Right on with your white-ginger-lily success. Adam

  4. andrew June 11, 2011 at 5:00 am #

    Adam, its good blog! information is useful for me, i tryied to find it earlyer but i failed… Thank you so much! Check here, i think that this info http://perfumejournal.blogspot.com/2011/05/why-natural-perfume.html?showComment=1307768277264#c616235186264736476 could be interesting for you too!

    • Adam Gottschalk June 11, 2011 at 1:31 pm #

      Fascinating story about a flower shop in the midwest being the beginning of her lifelong love affair with flowers.

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